Boot or shoe and method of making same



2 Sheets-Sheet l Q 1o 5; L1 "-1 Java-aria a 0 mung-y E M A s G N I m 0 s u w a w 1 mm h E c 0 D m r 00 0 0 00 a 0000 0 H D M 0000 N 00000 A d 00000 C e 000000 E M. 00000 0 F 000000 B 00000 S 00000 0 0000 R. 00000 0 00000 T 000000 0 00000 000000 m 000000 000000 000000 00000 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 000 00000 Aug. 5, 'l930.

Aug 5, 1930.

C. H. DANIELS BOOT 0R SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 18, 1930 can "Patented Aug. 5, 1930 UNITED STATES CLAUDE H. DANIELS, OF NEWTON CENTER, MASSACHUSETTS BOOT OR SHOE METHOD OF MAKING S AME Application filed March 18, 1930. Serial No. 436,729.

ness and less stretch than the .outside vamp piece.

I then coat the entire contacting face of either one or both of said vamp pieces, and subject the same to a pressure operation,

1 which will effectually unite the two vamp pieces into a substantially integral vamp.

I preferably also utilize heat. during the pressing operation to more fully insure the union of the said two vamp pieces.

As the next step in my novel method, I then subject the entire vamp, in its united condition, to a perforating operation, punching a plurality of substantially equi-sized and substantially equi-spaced apertures said vamp. This perforating of the entire area of the vamp would have a weakening effect on the vamp materials, were it not for the fact that I utilize a lining of considerable toughness and little stretch, said lining, nevertheless, being of desired flexibility.

Thus, although the vamp is perforated throughout its entire extent, it may be pulled over and lasted without materially distorting the upper materials or the perforations or apertures. This lack of distortion is also due to .the fact that the individual perforations are of small individual size, and their aggregate area will, therefore, not materially weaken the vamp or upper materials.

As the next step in my novel process I apply a collar, preferably also of leather, completely around the throat. portion of the vamp, securing said collar to said vamp by a single row of stitching, the collar projecting beyond the vamp around the margin of the throat portion."

Thereafter I unite the quarter of the shoe to said collarfby a row of stitching extending partially along said collar.

throughout substantially the entire area of eration;

The quarter lining is then united to the quarter, the Vamp, andthe collar, by a row of stitching extending completely through said lining, quarter, Vamp and collar, the quarter lining concealing the row of stitches which unites the quarter to the collar. Thercupon, a beading or trimming is applied over the free edge of said collar along a portion of the throat, and a row of stitching is applied uniting the quarter lining, quarter and beading, and, at the throat portion of the shoe, uniting the quarter lining, heading and collar.

I believe that the steps of the process of shoe manufacture above briefly outlined are novel, as well as the resulting shoe constructed thereby, and have, therefore, claimed the same in this application.

I may also insert, between the two vamp layers, at their toe portion, a toe stiffener, coating one or more surfaces thereto with-adhesive, and subjecting the vamp with the toe stiffener therein to the same steps as above enumerated.

I believe that it is novel to adhesively' unite :1 toe stiffener as an integral part of the vamp, and to perforate completely through the toe portion of the vamp, whereat this toe stiffener is located, and have also claimed this feature in the present application.

After the vamp and quarter are united, as above explained, the shoe may be completed in the usual manner, whether by welt or McKay processes.

The above and other objects of the invention, details, and features, will be herelnafter more fully pointed out, described and claimed.

Referring to the drawings, illustrating a preferred embodiment of the present invention,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the two vamp pieces assembledand coated, and with one layer turned back to illustrate the position of the toe stiffener;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the united vamp during the pressure operation;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary longitudinal sectional view illustrating the perforating op- 1 Fig. 4 is a plan view of the completely perforated vamp;

Fig. is a fragmentary plan view of the perforated vamp with the collar stitched thereto;

Fig. 6 is a cross sectional view on the line 66 of Fig. 5';

Fig. 7 is a pleted shoe;

Fig. 8 is a cross sectional view on the line 88 of Fig. 7 and x Fig. 9 is a cross sectional view on the line perspective view of the com- 99 of Fig. 7.

Referring now to the drawings, for a particular description of the invention, and the method of carrying out the same, my novel vamp comprises two layers of material, 1 and 2, these layers being preferably cut to identical size before uniting. The layer 1 is pi-.ef-.

- than the leather utilized in the outside vamp layer 1. The contacting faces of the layers 1 and 2 are then coated with a suitable adhesive as at 33, either one or both of said surfaces being thus treated.

' If desired, also, a layer 4 may be inserted between the two layers 1 and 2 at their toeportion, this layer 4 being of a suitable material to provide a toe stifiener in the completed shoe. The surfaces of this stiffener layer 4 may be coated with a suitable adhesive, as

illustrated at 5, if desired, although the adhesive 3 on the layers 1 or 2 may be suflicient for this purpose.

The adhered layers 1, 2 and 4 are then subjected to a press operation, as between the two presser members 6 in Fig. 2. These presser members 6 are also preferably heated, al-

though this is not essential. The pressing operation will firmly and integrally unite the layers 1, 2 and 4, or the layers ljand 2, if the stiffener layer 4 isnot utilized. t

. Subse u'ent'to the pressing operation I then subject t e united vamp materials to a perforating operation, the die 7 operating in COIIJUHCtlOH. with the anvil 8 to perforate a mass of fine apertures or perforations 9- completely through the united vamp materials, as

well as through the s'tiflener'layer 4. As clear ly illustrated in Fig. 4, this mass of perforationsext'ends overthe entire areaof the vamp materials, even to the edges thereof.

A collar 10 is then united to the vamp along the entire throat margin thereof by a single row of stitchin 11. This collar is of'sufli cient width so t rat a portion thereof will extend beyond the throat margin, as clearly i1- lustrated'in Figs. 5 and 6.

As the next step in my novel process, the

outside quarter 12 is united to the collar 10 by a row of stitchinglS, subsequent to which the quarter lining 14 is united to the vamp layers 1 and 2, and collar 10, and, throughout a portion of its extent to the outside quarter layer 12, by a row of stitching 15, this stitching, at the point illustrated by the'section line 9-9, extending through the quarter lining 14, outside quarter 12, vamp layers 1 and 2, and col- 1:11 10, and at the point illustrated by the section line 88, the stitching 15 passes through the strip 16 of the quarter lining, vamp layers 1 and 2, and collar 10.

Subsequent thereto, a beading 17 is afiixed to the free edge of the collar 10 by a row of stitching 18, another row of stitching 19 uniting the quarter lining 14 and its strip 16 to the collar 10 andbeading 17. Thereafter the thus assembled upper materials will be assembled on a last, and completed in any desired manner, whether Welt or McKay, the outsole 20 and heel 21 being applied in the usual manner.

From a glance atFig. 9 it will be apparent that the row of stitching 13 will be concealed on the interior of theshoe by the quarterlining 14. It will thus be apparent that I have devised a novel process of manufacturing shoes, both in the assembly and perforation of the vamp, and in the method of attaching the vamp and quarter.

The completed shoe manufactured according .to this rocesswill be, light and yet strong and urable. Also, because of the perforation of the entire vamp, thorough 0 ventilation will be provided, as well as admitting the sunlight directly to the foot of the wearer.

Because of the combination of the two layers 1 and 2 of the vamp materials, the said 0.. vamp will not be distorted during ulling over or lasting, the individual size 0 the perforations 9 being so small that the aggregate thereof has no material weakening effect on the vamp. The vamp, at the toe portion is 10 still further strengthened by the presence of the stiffener layer 4, which will also assist in retaining the shape of the shoe during wear. Y

' While I have necessarily described my 114' p'esent invention somewhat in detail, it will appreciated that I may vary the size, shape, and arrangement of parts within reasonabl wide limitsvwithout departing. from the spirit of the invention.

M inventionis further described and de fine in the form of claims as follows: a

1. The im roved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a vamp, toe stiffener, and vam lin- 1 ing, and thereafter simultaneously. per orating a plurality. of apertures completely. through said three layers. I

'2. An improved process of shoe manufac ture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a vamp, toe stiffener, and vamp lining, said toe stiffener being positioned between said vamp and said lining, subjecting said three elements to pressure, and then simultaneously perforating a plurality of apertures completely through said three layers throughout substantially their entire area. 1

3. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a Vamp and vamp lining, perforating said vamp and lining with a plurality of apertures throughout substantially the entire area of said vamp, then stitching a collar around the throat margin of said united vamp, a portion of said collar, throughout itsvamp, a portion of said collar, throughout its entire length, being free of contact with said vamp, then stitching the outside quarter to said collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat portion, and then stitching the quarter lining to the quarter, vamp and collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat, and to the vamp and collar along the inner throat portion.

5. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a vamp and Vamp lining, perforating said vamp and lining with a plurality of apertures throughout substantially the entire area of saidyamp, then stitching a collar around the throat margin of said united vamp, a portion of said collar, throughout its entire length, being free of contact with said vamp, then stitching the outside quarter to said collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat portion, and then stitching the quarter lining to the quarter, vamp and collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat, and to the vamp and collar along the inner throat portion by a line of stitching located closely adjacent to the line of stitching which secures the collar to thevamp.

6. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a vamp and vamp lining, perforating said vamp and lining with a plurality of apertures throughout substantially the en tire area of said vamp, then stitchinga collar around the throat margin of said united vamp, a portion of said collar, throughout its entire length, being free of contact with said vamp, then stitching the outside quarter to said collar adjacent to the open-ends of said throat portion, and then stitching the quarter lining to the quarter, vamp and collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat, and to the vamp and collar along the inner throat portion, the line of stitching which secures the outside quarter to the collar being concealed on the interior of the shoe by the quarter lining. a,

7. An improved boot or shoe comprising a vamp consisting of an outside vamp and vamp lining adhesively united and having a plurality of apertures completel therethrough throughout substantially the entire area of said vamp, a collar secured to said vamp along the throat margin thereof, a

portion of said collar being free of contact with said vamp, a quarter, stitching uniting said quarter to said collar adjacent to the open ends of said'throat, a quarter lining, and a line of stitching uniting said lining to said quarter, vamp and collar adjacent to the open ends of said throat, and to said vamp and collar along that portion of'the collar which is free of the quarten.

8. The improved process of shoe manufacture which consists in stitching one edge of a throat collar to the throat margin of a vamp so as to leave the other edge of the throat collar free and extending beyond the throat margin of the vamp, and subsequently stitching a quarter to the free edge portion of said throat collar.

9. The improved process of shoe manufacture which consists in stitching one edge of a throat collar against one face of the throat margin of a vamp so as to have the other edge of the throat collar free and extending beyond the throat margin of the vamp, disposing the edge portion of a quarter in overlapping relation to the throat margin of the vamp against the opposite face of the latter,

stitching the free edge portion of the throat collar to the quarter, and stitching through the superimposed edge portions of the vamp, the throat collar and the quarter.

10. The improved process of shoe manullU facture which consists in stitching one edge of a throat collar against the outer face of the throat margin of a vamp so as to have the other edge of the throat collar free and extending beyond the throat margin of the vamp, disposing the edge portion of a quarter in overlapping relation to the throat margin of the vamp against the inner face of the latter, stitching thefre edge portion of the throat collar to the quarter, and stitching the vamp, the throat collar and the quarter.

11. The improved process of shoe manuother edge of the throat collar free and extending beyond the throat margin of the vamp, disposing edge portions of a quarter in through the superimposed edgeiportions of overlapping relation to the throat margin of the vamp against the opposite face of the latter and at spaced points, respectively, disposing a headin of thethroat coll ar between said quarter portions and extending said beading over free edge portions of the .said quarter, stitching the free edge portions of the throat collar to the quarter "where these parts overlap one another, stitching through the superimposed edge portions of the vamp, the throat collar and the quarter, and stitching the beadm to free edge portions of the throat collar'an said quarter.

12. The improved process of shoe manufacture which consists in stitching one edge of a throat collar against the outer face of the throat margin ofa vamp so as to leave the other edge of the throat collar free and extending be ond the throat margin of the vamp, stitc ing spaced portions of a quarter to the free edge portionof said throat collar and to the vamp, stitching one edge of a vamp lining strip against the inner face of the throat margin of the vamp between said spaced quarter portions, disposing a beadin over the free edge portion of the throat co lar between said quarter portions, and stitching throu h said beading, the free edge portion of the t roat collar and the free edge portion of said lining strip.

13. In a boot or shoe, a vamp, a throat I collar secured along one edge to the throat margin of said vamp, the other edge portion of said throat collar extending outwardly beyond the throat margin of the vamp, and a quarter. secured to the second mentionededge portion of said throat collar.

14. In a boot or shoe, a vamp, a throat collar secured along one edge to the throat 1 margin of said vamp, the other edge portion of said throat collar extending outwardly beyond the throat margin of the vamp/ a quarter having a marginal portion overlapping said throat collar and therthroat margin of said vamp, and means securing the said marginal portion of said quarter to the second mentioned edge portion of said throat collar and to the throat margin of said vamp. 15. In a boot or shoe, a vamp including an outside portion, a lining and a toe stiffener between said outside portion and said lining adhesively connected with one another, said .vamp bein provided with parallel rows of apertures t roughout its entire area, the ad- Lacent ends of the apertures in adjacent rows eing spaced outwardly from one another whereby there is provided a continuous vamp reinforcing strip between each adjacent pair of rows of said apertures coextensive in len th with said rows of apertures.

n testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

' CLAUDE H. DANIELS.

over the free edge portion 

